Tulcea

Tulcea is Romania's most sparsely populated county and one of its most extraordinary: more than half its area belongs to the Danube Delta, a labyrinth of canals, reeds, and lakes. A trip to Tulcea means boat tours to pelican colonies, fish soup on the water's edge, and nights in villages with no road access.

The Danube Delta

Before the Danube flows into the Black Sea, it splits into three arms near Tulcea: Chilia in the north, Sulina in the middle, and Sfântu Gheorghe in the south. In between lie floating reed islands, water-lily lakes, and riparian forests. The delta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a biosphere reserve, with more than 300 bird species recorded, including great white and Dalmatian pelicans, spoonbills, and white-tailed eagles. Many villages in the interior, such as Mila 23, Crișan, and Letea, can only be reached by water, and near Letea a primeval-style oak forest grows on sand dunes, home to semi-wild horses. Murighiol on the Sfântu Gheorghe arm is a popular starting point for boat trips; nearby are the ruins of the Roman-Byzantine fortress of Halmyris.

Sights in Tulcea County

The city of Tulcea has a long riverfront promenade, an ecotourism center with an aquarium, and mosques dating from the Ottoman era. Sulina, Romania's easternmost town, can only be reached by boat. There, the old lighthouse and buildings of the European Commission of the Danube recall the days when the port had international standing; the beach lies right on the sea. To the south, Enisala Fortress towers above Lake Razim, and to the west rise the weathered granite mountains of Măcin Mountains National Park, among the oldest mountain ranges in Europe. Many villages are home to Lipovans, Old Believers of Russian origin, with their own churches and customs.

Cuisine, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit

Fish dominates the menu: fish soup with tomatoes (borș pescăresc), carp in brine (saramură), and fish patties with polenta. You can reach Tulcea by bus or car from Constanța, which also has the nearest airport; scheduled ferries and private boats run into the delta. May and June are ideal for birdwatching, mosquitoes bite in high summer, and September is quiet and warm.