Gorj: Brâncuși's Homeland and the Transalpina
Travel guide · editorialGorj, in the north of Oltenia, is the home of the sculptor Constantin Brâncuși, who created one of the most important works of modern public art here. A trip to Gorj combines art with caves, monasteries, and the spectacular high mountain road known as the Transalpina.
Târgu Jiu and Brâncuși's Ensemble
In Târgu Jiu, known in German as Tergoschwyl, Brâncuși designed a memorial to the fallen of World War I in 1937 and 1938: the Table of Silence, the Gate of the Kiss, and the nearly 30-meter-tall Endless Column, which are linked along an axis of just over a kilometer. Since 2024, the ensemble has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In Hobița, about 25 kilometers away, stands Brâncuși's birthplace, a simple wooden house with carved posts whose forms already recall his later sculptures. In the city itself, the park on the banks of the Jiu, the county museum, and a stroll along the Avenue of Heroes, which connects the works, are all worth your time. In autumn, Târgu Jiu hosts Brâncuși Days with concerts and exhibitions.
Sights in Gorj
At the foot of the mountains, caves and monasteries line up one after another: the Polovragi Cave and the monastery of the same name with frescoes in the Brâncoveanu style, Tismana Monastery beside a waterfall, founded in the 14th century, and the Muierilor Cave near Baia de Fier, where bones of early humans were found. North of Novaci, the Transalpina winds up to more than 2,100 meters; Rânca is a young ski resort there and, in summer, a base for hikes in the Parâng Mountains. In the north, the Jiu cuts through the Carpathians in a narrow gorge toward the Jiu Valley. In the south, open-pit lignite mines around Rovinari and Motru shape the landscape.
Cuisine, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit
In the mountain villages, you'll find sheep's cheese, polenta, lamb stew, and plum brandy, and at the markets, honey and walnuts. The nearest airport is in Craiova, and Târgu Jiu is accessible by train. Summer is ideal for the Transalpina, which is usually open from July to October, and for hiking, while Rânca is worth a visit in winter. Spring and fall are pleasant times for monasteries and caves, when the roads are empty and the forests of the foothills are in fresh green or glowing colors.
