Orhei: Cave Monastery above the Răut
Travel guide · editorialThe Orhei district lies in the heart of Moldova and is known above all for one landscape: the Răut valley near Orheiul Vechi, where monks carved a monastery into the limestone cliffs. A trip to Orhei combines this open-air archaeological site with villages full of blue-painted wooden fences, wineries, and the prettily restored district capital.
Orheiul Vechi
About 15 kilometers southeast of the town, the Răut River winds through a deep limestone gorge. On the rocky plateau above the river you'll find traces of settlements from many eras: Getae-Dacian fortresses, a Golden Horde city called Şehr al-Cedid, whose mosque and bathhouse ruins have been excavated, and a 15th-century Moldavian town. The best-known sight is the cave monastery in the rock, which you enter through a narrow passage; above it stands a white church with a bell tower. The villages of Butuceni and Trebujeni in the valley offer guesthouses where you can sample traditional cooking and enjoy views across the gorge.
The Town of Orhei and the Surrounding Area
The town of Orhei has been extensively redeveloped in recent years, with new parks, an amusement park, and a renovated riverfront along the Răut. The 17th-century Church of St. Demetrius, built by Prince Vasile Lupu, is the town's oldest historic monument. Nearby you'll find Curchi Monastery, one of the most beautiful in Moldova, and the Ivancea manor house. Wineries such as Château Vartely offer tastings and overnight stays.
The region is also known for its autumn festivals, when the villages press wine and harvest pumpkins. In Butuceni, a small ethnographic museum displays rugs, traditional costumes, and household items.
Food, Getting There, and the Best Time to Visit
Typical dishes include plăcintă with cheese, mămăligă with brânză and sour cream, zeamă chicken soup, and wine from the Codru region. Orhei can be reached from Chișinău by bus or car in about an hour, and Orheiul Vechi is another quarter of an hour beyond that. The best time to visit is May through October, especially autumn, with the grape harvest and golden hillsides.