Utena County

Utena County is Lithuania's lake district: more than a thousand lakes are scattered among forests and hills in the northeast of the country. A trip to Utena takes you to Lithuania's oldest national park, to a treetop walk near Anykščiai, and to villages with wooden churches. The region belongs to the historic landscape of Aukštaitija, the "Highlands."

Landscape and Location

The landscape was shaped by the Ice Age, with hills, moraines, and countless lakes connected by rivers. Aukštaitija National Park near Ignalina encompasses lakes, pine forests, and villages; from viewpoint hills such as Ladakalnis, you can see seven lakes at once. To the east lies Visaginas, a planned city from the Soviet era that was built for the Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant, now decommissioned. Molėtai and Zarasai are popular lakeside resort towns.

Sights in Utena County

Anykščiai is the best-known destination. In the pine forest along the Šventoji River, a treetop walk leads through the canopy at a height of around 20 meters, with an observation tower rising above it. Puntukas, a huge boulder, bears a relief of the Lithuanian aviators Darius and Girėnas, who died in 1933 during a transatlantic flight. A narrow-gauge railway runs from Anykščiai through the countryside, and in nearby Niūronys, the Horse Museum shows rural traditions. In Aukštaitija National Park, you'll find the Beekeeping Museum in Stripeikiai and a wooden water mill in Ginučiai. Molėtai has an observatory, and Zarasai has a viewing platform over Lake Zarasas. Labanoras Regional Park near Molėtai contains almost 300 lakes; canoe routes lead through forests where elk and wolves live. In winter, Ignalina is a center for cross-country skiing, and in Utena itself, Narkūnai hill fort is worth a stroll.

Food, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit

Typical local fare includes fish from the lakes, honey, smoked meat, and Anykščiai fruit wine. Utena is home to a well-known brewery. Buses connect Utena and Anykščiai with Vilnius in about an hour and a half; for the national parks, a car or bicycle makes sense. In summer, music festivals take place at the lakes near Zarasai and Molėtai, and vacation cottages with a sauna right on the shore are a popular place to stay. The best time to visit is May through September for swimming, canoeing, and hiking.