Liepāja

In Liepāja, the Latvians say, the wind is born – and sure enough, this stretch of the open Baltic Sea almost always has a fresh breeze blowing. A trip to Liepāja takes you to the country's third-largest city, a port town with a musical tradition, a wide beach, and the former military district of Karosta. It's about 220 kilometers (roughly 137 miles) from Riga.

City of Music

Liepāja, formerly Libau, is the home of Latvian rock music; bands such as Līvi come from here, and a Walk of Fame commemorates the scene. Since 2015, the Lielais dzintars concert hall, the "Great Amber," has added a modern accent with its golden-yellow, shimmering glass facade. Holy Trinity Cathedral houses one of the largest mechanical organs in the world. The Old Town, with its wooden houses, the Peter's Market, and shady courtyards, is easy to explore on foot. The Seaside Park, a long green belt behind the dunes, separates the city from the wide, fine-sand beach.

Karosta: Fortress and Soviet Past

To the north lies Karosta, a naval port built under Tsar Alexander III and later used by the Soviet navy. The golden domes of the Orthodox St. Nicholas Naval Cathedral rise above prefab apartment blocks and barracks. At the former military prison, visitors can join guided tours and even spend a night. Along the coast, the remains of the Northern Forts break dramatically into the sea – a popular photo spot at sunset. The swing bridge takes you back to the center.

Food, Getting There, and Best Time to Visit

Fish plays the leading role: smoked cod, flounder, sprats, and the Courland specialty sklandrausis, a sweet tart filled with carrot and potato. Liepāja is connected to Riga by bus and by car via the A9; there is also a small airport and ferry service to Travemünde. The best time to visit runs from June to September; in summer, music festivals and beach events take place. Surfers and kiters particularly appreciate the windy fall days. South of the city, the nature park at Lake Liepāja, with its bird-watching towers, is worth a detour, and in nearby Pāvilosta, sailors and windsurfers gather in a small fishing harbor. If you come in winter, you'll find a full program of classical, jazz, and organ music at the concert hall.