County Clare: Cliffs of Moher and the Burren
Travel guide · editorialCounty Clare is where Ireland feels at once at its starkest and its most musical. A trip to County Clare takes you to the Cliffs of Moher, across the limestone landscape of the Burren and into pubs where fiddle and concertina are played late into the night. Shannon Airport makes getting started easy.
Between the Atlantic and the Shannon
To the south and east, the broad estuary of the Shannon marks the county's boundary; to the west, it's the open Atlantic. The north is shaped by the Burren, a plateau of gray limestone whose crevices shelter rare plants such as gentians and orchids. Ennis, the county seat, has a medieval Franciscan friary, narrow lanes and a strong music scene. The coast between Kilkee and Loop Head is wilder and quieter than the better-known north.
Sights in County Clare
The Cliffs of Moher rise from the sea for roughly eight kilometers (5 miles) to a height of about 214 meters (700 feet); the coastal path to Doolin offers the best views without the crowds. In the Burren, don't miss the Poulnabrone dolmen, a tomb more than 5,000 years old, Aillwee Cave and the national park around Mullaghmore. Bunratty Castle and its open-air folk park show you Irish village life, and in the evenings there are medieval banquets. In summer, ferries run from Doolin to the Aran Islands, and the lighthouse at Loop Head is a good spot for dolphin watching.
Music, food and when to go
Doolin, Ennistymon and Miltown Malbay are considered strongholds of Irish folk music; the Willie Clancy Summer School takes place in Miltown Malbay in July. In September, singles gather in Lisdoonvarna for its time-honored Matchmaking Festival. Local specialties include Burren lamb, smoked salmon and goat cheese. The best time to visit is between May and September; the Burren is at its loveliest in bloom in May. Between Kilkee and Loop Head runs a quiet coastal road with sea arches and swimming spots that sees far fewer visitors than the cliffs in the north. On the Shannon Estuary near Kilrush, boat tours depart to see one of the few resident dolphin populations in Ireland and to visit the monastic island of Scattery Island. If you'd like to hike in the Burren, follow the marked Burren Way from Ballyvaughan via Fanore to Doolin.

