Pärnu County: Estonia's Summer Capital and Bogs
Travel guide · editorialPärnu County is the largest county in Estonia by area, stretching from the Gulf of Riga deep into the bogs of the interior. In summer, a vacation in Pärnu County revolves around the city of Pärnu, which Estonians themselves call their summer capital, and around a landscape that regularly floods in spring.
Pärnu: Beach and Spa Tradition
Pärnu lies at the mouth of the river of the same name and was a Hanseatic city in the Middle Ages. It has been a spa resort since 1838, when mud baths and sanatoriums drew visitors from across the Russian Empire. The neoclassical spa house and mud bath still stand, and wooden villas line the wide beach promenade. In the small Old Town you'll find the Tallinn Gate, a remnant of the 17th-century Swedish fortifications, the Baroque St. Elizabeth's Church, and the Orthodox Church of St. Catherine. In July, musicians gather here for festivals, including events centered on the conductor Paavo Järvi. On warm evenings, people sit in the cafés along Rüütli Street, the pedestrian zone, and eat smoked fish or ice cream; in winter, spa hotels with sauna complexes stay open, making Pärnu a year-round destination.
Sights in Pärnu County
Soomaa National Park, the "land of bogs," lies partly in Pärnu County. When snowmelt and rain send the rivers over their banks, locals speak of the fifth season; then you can paddle dugout canoes through meadows and forests. In summer, boardwalks lead across raised bogs. The island of Kihnu off the coast is known for its living culture, recognized as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage: women there wear striped skirts in everyday life, and old songs and customs are kept alive. On the coast south of the city you'll find the pine forest and beaches of Häädemeeste, as well as the village of Kabli with its bird-ringing station.
Getting There and Best Time to Visit
Pärnu lies on the Via Baltica between Tallinn and Riga, and the trip to Tallinn takes just under two hours by bus or car. The Rail Baltica railway line is under construction. Pärnu Airport offers only occasional flights. The best time for a beach vacation is June through August, when the water of the shallow bay warms up quickly; Soomaa is worth visiting in April for the flooding and in fall for hiking.