Lovech Province: Troyan Monastery and the Central Balkan
Travel guide · editorialA covered bridge lined with small shops spans the Osam River in Lovech, a rarity anywhere in the Balkans. A trip to Lovech takes you to the northern slopes of the Balkan Mountains, to monasteries, pottery workshops and the mountain villages around Apriltsi and Ribaritsa.
Lovech and Troyan
The provincial capital Lovech sits in a narrow valley below Hisarya Hill, which is crowned by the remains of a medieval fortress. The old town of Varosha has cobbled lanes and houses from the Bulgarian National Revival period; this is where the freedom fighter Vasil Levski hid, and a museum is dedicated to him. About 15 kilometers to the north, the huge Devetashka Cave opens up, home to colonies of bats. Troyan, farther south, is famous for its ceramics with drip patterns in brown, green and blue, and for plum brandy. A few kilometers away lies Troyan Monastery, the third largest in the country, with frescoes by Zahari Zograf.
Mountains and Nature
The south of the province belongs to Central Balkan National Park, with primeval beech forests, chamois and waterfalls. Apriltsi stretches across several valleys at the foot of Botev Peak and is the starting point for hikes to mountain huts and waterfalls in the national park. Ribaritsa, near Teteven, is a quiet health resort on the Beli Vit River. A winding road leads south over the Troyan Pass into the Rose Valley. Teteven, the third larger town, is nestled among rocks and forests on the Vit River and counts among the prettiest places in the Fore-Balkan. In Glozhene Monastery near Teteven and in the old village of Cherni Osam, you'll find more small museums and workshops where woodcarvers and potters show off their skills.
Food, Getting There and Best Time to Visit
Plums and apples are grown around Troyan and distilled into rakia; they go well with bean soup, grilled trout and sirene cheese. Lovech is about two hours from Sofia. The best time to visit is May through October; June and September offer ideal hiking weather in the Balkan Mountains. If you're traveling without a car, use the buses from Lovech and Troyan, which also serve the mountain villages.