Shkodra County: Lake Skadar and the Albanian Alps
Travel guide · editorialBetween the largest lake in the Balkans and the rugged peaks of the Albanian Alps lies Shkodra County, the cultural center of northern Albania. A trip to Shkodra County is well worth it for hikers, history buffs, and anyone who wants to experience unspoiled mountain country.
Shkodra and the Lake
Shkodra, known in German as Skutari, is one of the oldest cities in Albania and is considered a stronghold of Albania's Catholics, of poetry, and of music. It was once the capital of the Illyrian king Gentius. Rozafa Castle rises above the city, wrapped in a legend about a woman walled up alive; from the top you look out over Lake Skadar and the Drin and Buna rivers. The pedestrian zone of Rruga Kole Idromeno is lined with restored town houses, and the Marubi photography collection has documented life in Albania since the 19th century. The Catholic cathedral and large mosques stand close together. Many locals get around by bicycle, which is rare in Albania. On the lakeshore near Shiroka, fish restaurants serve carp and eel, often with views of the mountains of Montenegro across the water.
Sights in Shkodra County: Mountains and Coast
North of the city, the Prokletije, or Albanian Alps, begin. The mountain village of Theth in the Shala municipality, with its stone houses, the Kulla e Ngujimit defensive tower, and the Grunas waterfall, is the starting point for a classic hike over the pass to Valbona. The ferry ride across Lake Komani is considered one of the most beautiful boat trips in Europe, winding through fjord-like gorges. To the south lies Velipoja at the mouth of the Buna, a simple seaside resort with a long sandy beach and lagoons full of birds near the Montenegrin border.
Getting There and Best Time to Visit
You can reach Shkodra by bus from Tirana in a little over two hours; Podgorica in Montenegro is also close by. For Theth and Lake Komani, guesthouses in Shkodra arrange minibus transfers. The best time to visit the mountains is June through September, when the mountain roads are free of snow; spring and fall are also good for the city and the lake.