Lezha County: Skanderbeg's Tomb and the Beaches of Shëngjin
Travel guide · editorialLezha County is home to one of Albania's most symbolic sites: the tomb of Skanderbeg, the national hero who defied the Ottomans in the 15th century. A trip to Lezha County pairs this history with sandy beaches, lagoons, and a mountainous hinterland that remains little developed.
Lezha and the Skanderbeg Memorial
Lezha, the ancient Lissos, lies on the Drin River not far from its mouth. It was here in 1444 that the Albanian princes under Skanderbeg formed the League of Lezha, an alliance against the Ottomans. The hero was buried in 1468 in St. Nicholas Church, which later became a mosque; today the ruin is laid out as a memorial with a bronze bust, coats of arms, and replica weapons. A castle with Illyrian, Roman, and Venetian wall remains towers above the town, and the climb is rewarded with wide views all the way to the sea. In town itself you'll find simple restaurants serving grilled meat, byrek, and fresh vegetables from the Drin plain, and in the evening people gather on the central square for coffee.
Shëngjin and the Coast
Shëngjin, formerly San Giovanni di Medua, is a small port and popular seaside resort with a long sandy beach and a promenade. To the south lies the Kune-Vain protected area with lagoons, pine forests, and abundant waterbirds, including flamingos and pelicans in the winter months. Somewhat more remote is Rana e Hedhun beach with a large sand dune. Fish, mussels, and eel from the lagoon dominate the menus here. In the hinterland, in the mountain region of Mirdita, the population is predominantly Catholic, and old monasteries and villages await discovery. In Kurbin, the southern part of the county, you'll find Laç with the pilgrimage church of St. Anthony, which Catholics and Muslims alike visit every June.
Getting There and Best Time to Visit
If you're staying longer, you can book boat trips along the coast in Shëngjin. Lezha lies on the highway between Tirana and Shkodra, and Tirana Airport is about an hour away. June through September is best for swimming; spring and fall are ideal for hiking and birdwatching.